Launceston

Launceston sits on the border with Devon and was Cornwall’s county town for centuries. Sitting right on the border with Devon, it was the county’s capital for centuries and still carries an air of quiet authority. The Norman castle on the hilltop above town is the most obvious landmark — the round keep gives sweeping views over the Tamar Valley, Dartmoor and Bodmin Moor. The town’s medieval street layout is still largely intact, with steep lanes leading down from the castle to the market square.

The town has a solid mix of independent shops, cafes and pubs, plus a regular farmers’ market. St Mary Magdalene Church is worth a look for its extraordinary carved granite exterior — almost every surface is covered in intricate decoration. The Launceston Steam Railway runs a heritage narrow-gauge line through the Kensey Valley, popular with families. Lawrence House Museum gives a good introduction to local history and is free to enter.

For visitors, Launceston works well as a base for exploring north and east Cornwall. Bodmin Moor is on the doorstep, the north coast beaches at Bude and Crackington Haven are about half an hour away, and the A30 gives quick access west towards the rest of Cornwall. It’s one of those towns that often gets driven through rather than stopped in, which is a shame — there’s more here than most people realise.